What to eat next?

Life as a yoga student in Mysore seems to be all about practice, talking about practice, eating, talking about where to eat and what to eat, and, of course, sleeping. Yesterday was Saturday and that means led primary for all students as well as Sharath's conference. Led class was mostly consistent with what I have already experienced. We were packed fairly tightly in the shala, and a few people were in the changing rooms. Before class, we waited in front of the shala in no kind of recognizable order.
A few students who had been to Mysore before tried to get students to form a line, but that did not happen. There was actually some active resistance on the part of a group of students. They were obnoxious and rude. They acted the same way after the class--loud, drawing attention to themselves, pushing through lines or groups of people. The led class was fairly slow--much slower than Sharath's cd count. Reprimands abounded for hurrying (Why you hurry? You hungry?") He told me that I should not roll my yoga rug at the end of my mat (I do not roll it out until the seated postures), that I needed to fold it. It is hard to get a good sense of what is going on in the shala and what types of corrections he is giving to people. It seems that he told another student not to grab her thigh in marichasana c and d. The wrist clasp (with closed, but loose fist) was enough. It also appeared that he wanted us to keep a closed fist in the maricasana postures, rather than the open palm that I thought he encouraged earlier in the week. If I ever give any kind of posture suggestions based on what I think Sharath is telling students to do, please take them with a grain of salt. Unless he gives me a direct correction or adjustment, I simply cannot know what he might be requesting a student to do.

Nandi, Shiva's Bull

I did not have time to go home or to eat after class, so I just had a coconut and then got in the line to go back into the shala for Sharath's conference. Sharath has asked us not to record or even to take notes during conference.  I will refrain from sharing the content of his talk. I will report that there was nothing in his comments that would surprise anyone. I will share one quote (paraphrased): "There is no need to chase yoga; yoga is inside you." I know that I have a tendency to make everything so damn complicated and to over-analyze the minutiae of my life and my practices. The shala was completely full during the conference. For both chanting and for the conference, I choose a spot against the back wall.  Even though he uses a microphone, it was hard to hear everything that he said. He was surprisingly relaxed and he demonstrated a charming sense of humor. I would not say that I was blown away by any deep yogic insights (but that might just be my need to complicate things and to over-analyze), but he conveyed an air of intelligence, warmth, kindness, and common sense.

After conference, I went to lunch with a group of people to a restaurant in another part of town called the Old House. I was not excited about the restaurant choice (Italian food in India?!?!?), but I ordered a vegan pizza, and it was delicious. The pizza had more vegetables than any pizza I have ever had in the States. The restaurant was rather pricey, and there was a mixture of yoga students and (rich) locals. There were some yogalebrities eating there as well.  After lunch, we went to FabIndia and then to a store called Big Bazaar (like a Target).  FabIndia has wonderful, well-designed clothing and products that are all made in India. The company treats its workers well and sources its products from vendors that do the same.  I will be going back there during this trip.

Chamundeshwari Temple (not my photo)

Today is rest day, but I woke up early to go to Chamundi Hill on the outskirts of the city.  Kumar the rickshaw driver drove us out to Chamundi. At the top of the hill stands the Chamundeshwari Temple (for the goddess Chamunda, or Durga, the fierce form of Shakti. In order to get to the temple, you walk up 1008 steps. It takes about 30 minutes. About halfway up the hill, there is a statue of Nandi, Shiva's bull. Once you reach the top of the hill, there are lots of people (we were there by 7:30 am) who want to visit the temple. You check your shoes and then you can buy flowers or coconuts to offer to the deity. We waited in a long line in corrals (like at an amusement park) to get into the temple. Once in the temple, you can pay a few rupees to get blessed. You can wave some fire over your forehead and then you are offered some kind of scented water that you can either drink or pour back over your head.  (I chose not to drink). Once you get near the deity--she is really closed off and you cannot get too close unless you pay extra--you can offer your coconuts and flower (they will be returned to you), pay your respects, and then move out of the temple. There were lots of people waiting in line, so you cannot spend a lot of time dillydallying around. There is not much space inside the temple.

There is a Shiva temple behind the big temple. It is much older and (possibly) more interesting. You can offer a few rupees to a priest outside the temple and he will give you a bracelet that bestows blessing. Once inside the temple, you can pay your respects to Shiva and then take the scented-water (saffron or cardamom).

After the Shiva temple, we walked back down the hill, were our rickshaw driver was waiting for us to take us back to Gokulam. He was slightly disgruntled that we took so long on top of the hill, but then he cheerily drove  us to a breakfast place where we are idlis, vadas, and sambhar.

The start of the climb

1008 steps to the top

Now, it is time to head out to eat again. More to follow...